I used 16" x 24" 3/4 MDF. It is best if you seal it with paint or some sealer.
I set the edge of the clamps flush to edge of the board to get the rails parallel.
Mark the holes & drill. I used a 3/32 drill bit.
I put the drive & breakout board on the back end. You can put them on later.
There ia a drawing at the bottom for table mounting / setup
Most of the parts are acrylic, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS.
This will not be machining titanium.
You will either get it, or you won't.
If you don't, find a freind to help that is mechanically inclined.
You can always email me, or use skype, bluumax. I'm usually here.
I've sold kits for years & I have leaned one thing, "they either get it or they don't"
It doesn't matter how well put together the instructions are.
I put up a forum on yahoo groups
I used 1/4-20 all-thread / threaded rod cut to about 4.75".
Use some something for a spacer to make sure the top is the same height all the way around.
I had a piece of 3" PVC pipe I used.
Otherwise you can have a warped table top.
Click on images below for Adobe 3D PDF's
Updated: July 26, 2015
Typical 24VDC Power Supply Wiring
This is the older DRV881 ver, The Pololu drive connections are physically different but electronically the same,
I'm working on an optional mainboard to plug the drives into with screw terminals and jumpers for drive resolution.